Because I slept outside I woke early, I guess it was about 6.30 (Blackberry has no power and without a watch I just have to guess), and then sat in my sleeping bag for a few minutes to observe the day. A woman walked with her dogs close by the site in which I had slept. I think she was a little hesitant when she saw me lying there in the field. She was probably wondering ‘is this a homeless person in my field?’. I waved and greeting and that seemed to put her at ease. With my shaven head and 5-day beard I probably could be confused for a bum. If one looks at the whole package, the bike is however the giveaway. A remnant of my formerly financially-stable life when I would spend more on a bicycle than I spend now on two months of living expenses. Aluminum frame, Magura brakes, Tubus racks, it is a nice travel machine and I am very glad I still have it. Freedom on two wheels.
Today was a hard ride with many climbs. I guess I did about 70 kms in total. Sunday I removed the board computer from my bike. I don’t have to know how fast I am traveling, how many kilometers, average speed, etc. All superfluous, so I removed the computer. The distance I travel will depend on how I feel, the speed I travel will be that which feels right. More by feeling and less by calculation.
In the early evening I road through a village and behind a farmhouse saw a beautiful patch of grass. Leaned the bike against a fence and went in search of the farmer to ask if I could place my tent there. He was not around so I just walked around the village a little. Village is perhaps the wrong word, more a collection of houses and farms, maybe 10 in total at a small intersection. Approached a man in one of the other barns and asked him if he thought it would be ok if I slept there. He suggested I wait a moment until his friend returned in the tractor because he knows the farmer. We talked about my route and he was shocked to hear that destination is Odessa. The guy in the tractor returned and said I could sleep in his field, which is near the one I had chosen earlier. We continued to talk about my tour and such and then the man offered me to sleep in his barn. This is always better because I really don’t like to pitch and strike the tent. I was all for a night in the barn. Sure. Great. Thank you. Then came the four sweetest words in the German language “Möchtest du ein Bier?” (Do you want a beer?). In my whole life I have answered “no” to that question maybe a total of three times. If I have indeed turned down a beer in the past, it was surely not after a full day on a bicycle. The three of us stood there, leaning against the tractor, drinking beer and talking. Wish I could have taken a photo of that moment.
Herbert is from the next village and Hans has lived in this village his entire 35 years. Anita, his wife and also from the village, came out to say hello and ask what I needed for the night in the barn. I have everything but she suggested an air mattress and went to get one. When she came back she invited me to sleep in the house. This is becoming a pattern. A pattern I like. They set me up in a room in the basement with a double bed. Soon the dinner table was set outside and they just sat me down at the table, brought more beer, and we started eating: no formalities, just as if it were completely normal to meet a stranger on the street, invite him into the home and sit down together for dinner. I thought hospitality like this went out of fashion 50 years ago.
They asked about my life, my home, profession, etc. When I told them that I am a lawyer they seemed a bit confused. In Germany a lawyer is typically an overly-matured man in a three-piece suit, driving a Mercedes C-class, walking around as if he has a poker up his ass and talking down to everybody. I clearly did not fit the picture.
After dinner we watched the women’s football match between Germany and France. I fell asleep on the couch at 3-2 and the matched finished at 4-2 for Germany. In the morning we had coffee and breakfast with their three kids and I was on the road by 7.30. Their hospitality was much more than anyone could have expected and I told them that. Looking back, I should have taken their address in order to send them a postcard.
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